Dear Berlin, this is for you:
Fifteen hours. Fifteen hours in
the van.
[Don't
start with this, Tim, for god's sake.]
Hard
seats and road noise and debates about the link between influential
statements and criminal actions. Where does the buck stop? Long, long
roads and Europe's flat and open fields. A 5am start, blind
eyes punctured by text
messages from one person or another:
Be
safe!
This
screen is too bright.
Don't
forget to bring x!
I
already
packed,
in a fit of excitement, three days ago.
Make
sure you drive on the right side of the road! Not the right
side, I mean, but the right
side. Drive on the right
side.
Destroy
me. Take me to the place they make the glue.
6am:
cigarettes and no breakfast.
Music,
language, geography, and little
leak of diesel.
[Skip
to the end]
That
evening, on arrival,
we literally dripped
into our apartment, funneled
out of the cool Berlin air in what was apparently the 'interesting'
part of town. It
looked perfectly friendly to we naïve little children, wandering
about in the dark with suitcases, grins, and hopeful eyes, like
Pinocchio in the circus, or a cute,
blonde, country
girl taking her first steps
onto the streets of LA, going
to her first audition glad that there's that tarpaulin on the casting
couch, lest she spill her drink. Oh, hello. With those huge arms, you
must be a writer? No?
I was
asked to go out and get some beers and, in
a linguistic tangle, ended up
buying shandy and not nearly enough of it. I was a fool. A
damn fool.
Not
for long, however, as after a quick dinner we hit the hay. Or at
least I, my short straw being eternally long, so to speak, hit
the sofa. The scratchy sofa.
Still,
the road, used responsibly,
is a powerful
sedative.
First
stop: First thing: a meeting in Potsdamerplatz. We all hopped on the
U-Bahn, still confused and muddled and not quite ready for
twenty-letter-long words, alien proclamations, or complex navigation
around a city that seems to have de-marked its rail lines along the
labels mauve, purple, magenta, off-blue-red, and dark lilac.
Even
in the meeting, I rejected coffee as five other heads around me
bobbed at the offer of water. I did the thing where you walk into a
bar with someone and they offer to buy you a drink, and as a
warm-hearted offer of gratitude you say 'Whatever you're having!',
like a little Christmas cracker expression of companionship.
No sooner, however,
had I said 'Yes, water would be lovely, thanks.' than two other
people grunted
'...coffee.', and I immediately regretted my decision...but also in
the spirit of what I'd already done felt uncomfortable contemplating
my going 'Oh...actually...yeah, I'll have coffee.' Because I didn't
want to be a pain in asking for a coffee that had already
been offered to me.
We
were all tired, is
what I'm saying.
But
we had a lovely time, up there on the somethingth floor, looking out
of the big glass windows onto the city below. We began by talking
about the weather. That made us feel at home.
That,
then, and then after a little stroll and coordination we hit a café
for a couple of interviews and a photo-shoot. There was an ashtray on
the table. The British mind boggles. You can smoke inside. In a café.
You know, in comfort. You can do something that you enjoy, in comfort.
After being slightly underwhelmed by what I'd seen that morning (the
city has something of a reputation for a
slightly more Epicurean,
rather than George Bestian hedonism
- something I was looking
forward to having thrust, Arthurially, in my puffy face, but
something which had not yet occured),
suddenly, with sensible
Health and Safety legislation based on the practical apportionment of
separate rooms and acknowledgement that perhaps life is not a mere
exercise in sanitisation [pardon me, History,
I really didn't mean to, though you may indeed wish to poke your head
around a corner or two on this one],
this place was starting to speak to me, albeit
with yellowed teeth and sooty breath.
Another
coffee offered to us,
another one rejected. Two of them rejected on the grounds (grounds)
that 'we've already had one.'
Damn.
Two
really nice interviews, and a painful but honestly awkward
photo-shoot in and around the place. I ended up with the one bit of
sofa that had turned into a sink-hole, so as everyone else tried to
look their coolest I was left just hoping I didn't look like a man
with legs only up to my knees, waddling around and hunched over.
Me,
only more
gremlinised.
Move
towards gig-time. Our first gig in Berlin and our first city gig in
Europe; the only other European date being in Croatia more than
twelve months ago.
See
the venue. It's nice, in a cool 'under the tracks' kind of way. We
were literally under the tracks, though – I don't mean that just to
describe the type.
Sorry to rail on at
you, but I haven't been a good sleeper lately
and it's tricky to stay on track.
Balb.
See
the backstage area. There is coffee. There is coffee and
you can smoke inside and
there is
beer in glass bottles and
vodka and giant
pretzels and chocolate.
This is heaven.
Confusion.
No sound-check? No pre-gig
line-check?
ONCE
MORE UNTO THE BREACH, DEAR FRIENDS!
It's
a blur until before the gig. People came! People were there! You
lovely people! Who could ask for more? They came and they applauded
and they cheered and they even sympathised with a little synthesised
mayhem as a tiny glitch on the computer thought that Atomic
wasn't avant-garde enough, so
rather than ending in that big prog-euro-trance way that it does, it
ended with a fart on the bass and a distinct sense of disappointment,
like those brioche rolls that come in opaque packages and aren't
really brioche and contain chocolatey liquid instead of chocolate
chunks but you bought it thinking it was real brioche and you
won't make that mistake again, because you're no sweetbread fool.
But,
apart from that, we did ourselves proud [pats self on back with
flapping bum]
Oh,
good lord.
So, I mean, I'm still getting over it.
Because
then the evening happened, and Berlin in all of its glory came out to
shine.
What's
that? The hotel bar is closing and we're not allowed in? But...our
friends said they were here. Yes, we are English. The bar is
definitely closing?
Yes!? Oh...there's our friend. Oh he's made eye contact with you and given
you a little nod. Oh, we're allowed in now, are
weyeswefuckingarebecausewe'refuckingPhoria.
The good people at
Humming Records know how to show their bands the city. They could not
have been more welcoming or friendly and we heartily appreciate them
and the work they're doing for us over there.
We
all sat around then, drank, almost accidentally ordered shandy again,
and slipped gradually down the cushions in the comfortable hotel bar.
Where
are we going next?
Clubbing?
Sigh.
OK,
but I don't dance. There won't be dancing, will there? I don't dance.
I hate dancing. OK, I'll go and see how it is but if there's dancing
then I might head back. Yeah, I know it's Berlin, but I hate dancing
and just because I'm in Berlin it doesn't mean that if you're all
dancing and I'm on my own in some club that I'm suddenly going to
like dancing.
7am,
then, and after dancing all night we're getting the train home from,
like, omg the
coolest club, like,
ever. I had to text my England-stationed-bastion-of-hope-in-the-world
to tell her that I was in a place that felt like:
...a
mix between the house from Resident
Evil and
the club where Neo meets Trinity in The
Matrix. Also
don't be jealous and you're a total
bitch
who
smells.
It
was just one long roller-coaster of action that doesn't fit into much
of a driving story. We hit another bar the next night and found it
difficult to leave 'early'
at
2am
(we had to leave because we had to drive home the next day), because
yet again the party was just getting started. That
city just keeps going.
We,
along with some of the German people we met, lamented a little the UK
drinking culture and how, for us, its relative paucity of imagination was highlighted by this
little trip. Not just little things that you get on the continent
like, you know, being trusted as an adult to take a glass outside
every now and then, but just the way in which the evening/morning is
approached. I come from a small town in South Devon, and, on a
Saturday night, the vomit stings your eyes and blue lights stink up
the place. In Berlin, the capital city of
Germany,
this
just...wasn't there. Not a hint of it.
Then
again, we met a man outside the train station one night and he said,
and I quote:
'...if
Thom Yorke was
in
the same room as me, right now, I'd rape him so hard with a plastic
dick that his arse would break into a hundred pieces.'
So
I guess the civilised times are just where you find them.
That
said, we want to go back, and hope that Germany can offer the same
when we head to Hamburg in just another couple of days.
More
road, more fun, more gigs, and we're going to try and bring Thom
Yorke.
We
hope you're well.
I'm
going to spend the day tidying my little flat because I
have an 'inspection' tomorrow.
It's
good to be home.
I
believe that's the Officially Sanctioned Motto of National
Solidarity, anyway. That and 'Call Centre Positions Are Real Jobs',
which we should repeat to ourselves
over
and over again, lest anybody begin to feel disenfranchised.
Heaven
forfend.
Cheers,
Tim
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